Buschur Racing's Evo X has arrived!

[t2fastalon]

Dave, are you going to play with this thing at Mid-Ohio this year?

[blackout]

I'm doing that on the local forums right now... lol

haha. Gotta make them eat their words.

Good little clip in the new SCC says:2 of Tsukubas' finest hot shoes took out the JDM evo X and the STI. Only a half a second difference in their lap times.

new STI- 1:05:95
old STI - 1:04:72
X- 1:06:46
IX- 1:05:07

So both are slower but that can be remedied with some Buschur parts.

[David Buschur]

OK, we also finished up the FMIC today. I am surprised at the results from the testing.

Since we do not have inlet/outlet temps and a way to datalog the changes in AIT's we simply used our laser pyrometer on the FMIC tanks to get an idea on the cooling.

Last time we dyno'd the car we had our BR True Dual exhaust, BR upper i/c pipe, BR filter kit and BR manual boost controller.

Today we installed the FMIC kit. The results were very shocking. We put the new BR FMIC on the car and loaded the car on the

We made 3 runs back to back with each intercooler. We used no fan on the dyno as we were measuring surface temps and did not want the fan to mess with our measurements. I will list this with air temps and HP/Torque.

BR FMIC

1st run, 295 whp/256 torque
Start inlet temp 49 degrees Starting outlet temp 48 degrees
Inlet after pull 52 degrees Outlet after pull 48.5 degrees

2nd run, 294 whp/256 torque
Start inlet temp 52.5 degrees Starting outlet temp 48 degrees
Inlet after pull 54 degrees Outlet after pull 49 degrees

3rd run, 284 whp/246 torque
Start inlet temp 54 degrees Starting outlet temp 49 degrees
Inlet after pull 57 degrees Outlet after pull 50 degrees

So you can see from the above that the power/torque was consistent and the intercooler stayed cool. In three back to back pulls the inlet tank went from 49 degrees to 57 degrees and the outlet tank went from 48 degrees to 50 degrees.

We then took the BR FMIC off the car and put the stock FMIC back on the car. We made the change on the dyno with no other changes.

1st run, 274 whp/240 torque
Start inlet temp 54 degrees Starting outlet temp 52 degrees
Inlet after pull 82 degrees Outlet after pull 64 degrees

2nd run, 271 whp/231 torque
Start inlet temp 79.5 degrees Starting outlet temp 59 degrees
Inlet after pull 93 degrees Outlet after pull 77 degrees

3rd run, 264 whp/230 torque
Start inlet temp 85 degrees Starting outlet temp 63 degrees
Inlet after pull 100.5 degrees Outlet after pull 84 degrees

Very shocking to see the stock FMIC inlet continue to raise temps. I had the peak boost set at 24 psi with our FMIC kit. When we put the stock intercooler back on the boost dropped about 1.5 psi. So our FMIC has 1.5 less pressure drop than the stock core does.

The HP gains are nuts. On average the FMIC gained 21.3 whp and 19 ft lbs of torque.

Here is a picture of the FMIC on the car with the fascia off. We need to make a few more changes but this is the basic design. The upper i/c pipe works with the stock FMIC and our FMIC. The lower i/c pipe (stock) also works with our FMIC and the stock FMIC. We are trying to keep the modification path very simple with the car and make everything work together to save all of you money on mods.

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[David Buschur]

Here is our new shifter bushing kit. These made a HUGE difference in the feel of the shifter on our EVO X. The stock shifter felt like crap to me. These are ready to go and $35.

[Sebba]

Whats next on the list?

[David Buschur]

We built a lightweight battery kit today and lower i/c pipe. Also working on a much larger FMIC that will be done next week. Then we are going to move to the 02 housing and down pipe.

[David Buschur]

A few more new parts finished up today.

First is the lightweight battery kit for the rear. This is a weight savings part only at this point. On the EVO8-9 we had to do it (and were the first to do it) because it was the only intelligent way to make a nice I/C pipe. Now it is just to shave weight.

The stock battery tray weighs 2.5 pounds, so since we were looking to save weight we did our kit with the battery and a new aluminum tray. The tray bolts into the factory bolt holes with the factory bolts.

The stock battery and tray weigh in at 37.5 pounds. Our complete battery kit weighs in at only 14 pounds, a nice savings of 23.5 pounds. These are $280 complete.

Here is a picture of the battery kit:



We also finished up our lower i/c pipe for the car today. It's a little shorter and a bunch smoother than the stock one. We also were able to relocate the BOV return hose using the stock hose to make it all look a LOT better under the hood. I HATED the factory hose routing, looked horrible. The tubing is mandrel bent 304 grade SS. The lower i/c pipe (and our upper i/c pipe) both work with the factory FMIC and will work with our FMIC for the car. This will be $299 polished and $249 brushed.

Here is a picture of the lower i/c pipe in the car:

[blackout]

Parts are looking good.

[manley57]

37 1/2 lbs. Thats was some crazy stock battery & tray weight!

[Spoolin0nYou]

37 1/2 lbs. Thats was some crazy stock battery tray weight!

That's the tray AND the battery vs. the BR mini battery kit, Tom.

[Ryan Bell]

Wow. When are you planning staged upgrade packages for the X?

[David Buschur]

We are working on all the parts for Staged upgrades now. I have to get a solution for the CEL from taking the cat off and build the new 02 housing/downpipe for the car too. It's all coming together one piece at a time.

[manley57]

Knowing how David is, it will be the right solution too!

[blackout]

Where are the pics of that new intercooler man?

[David Buschur]

I'm waiting on the tanks to be laser cut now.......I need them pretty bad, believe me.

The last few days we have been really working hard at this. Trent has almost two full days in building a fixture for the catback. We are duplicating everything now so we can send one sample part of everything to the bender and still have the car together with all the parts we've made for further testing.

Today we were able to get the lower i/c pipe finished and shipped off to by bent.

I also built a MAF pipe today, I didn't want to build one but the demand is high so I will test it first, duplicate later. This could be a lengthy test, I need to make sure the are no stalling issues or calibation issues with the MAF.

[David Buschur]

Here is how we built our MAF inlet pipe yesterday. As I said, this is NOT going into production until I put some miles on this car and verify that there is NO problems with the MAF reading or stalling. IF it works out as well as I hope it will then we will produce this part.

Enjoy the pictures:





We did route the BOV back into the pipe on the same angle as the stock inlet had. I also took the time to tap the vent from the valve cover back into the pipe. I hate the idea as I don't want the oil in the FMIC but we will offer this as an option to those of you that want it.

[Rogue]

Given the filter location in the engine bay, dont you see high Intake temps?

Ever consider a full CAI?

[David Buschur]

Running a CAI on the car and moving the filter down with a bend before it will throw off the MAF signal, no way to tune the car yet so that is out of the question. We dyno'd the car with the hood shut and still gained 10 whp with the filter.

[Spoolin0nYou]

Plus, with the exhaust/turbo at the back of the engine bay now, I'd assume that the front of the engine compartment stays pretty cool with the 2 fans on the dyno running.

[David Buschur]

We got the turbo assembly off the car. The parts can use some pretty serious porting. They aren't quite as nice as the EVO 8-9 parts but they are very similar. They just require more port work and time. (While I am on this subject the new pricing for all of our individual port work is $95 per piece, that is for manifolds, turbos, 02 housings and intake manifolds).

I didn't bother porting the 02 housing or taking pictures of it. Below are the pictures of the exhaust manifold and turbine housings. These pictures show them after they have been gasket matched and ported.

First picture, this is the ported outlet of the exhaust manifold. This is gasket matched to the inlet of the turbine housing.



Second picture, this is the exhaust port where it meets the cylinder head. This is gasket matched to the exhaust manifold gasket.



Third picture, this is the inlet to the turbine housing, this is matched to the outlet of the exhaust manifold.



Fourth picture, this is the outlet of the turbine housing which is smoothed and opened up to the outside of the gasket. The gasket is a large open shape (just like the 02 housing) so the gasket runs around the perimeter of the housing with nothing in the middle.



The parts are going back on the car now. We have a lot of dyno testing to catch up on. There should be really nice gains in the port work.