Your AD Here    Buschur BADBISH 250x90 Test 3    BuschurFacebook
+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 4 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 69

Thread: DSM_BOY’s 800hp Goal/ AWD Conversion Build

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Austin
    Posts
    48

    Default DSM_BOY’s 800hp Goal/ AWD Conversion Build

    Well after a Year 1/2 of constant beating on my stock 7 bolt, she finally blew and am now ready to move on to some real power

    Here’s the damage from the 7 Bolt
    Threw the #2 Rod out the block
    I guess those toothpick rods don’t like 30psi for very long
    (Unfortunately I didn’t get to take a pic of the block but there were 2 holes on the front and 1 hole in the back of the block)





    Here’s a list of the Main important NEW parts:
    (please feel free to comment opinions/advice)
    I change my mind a lot so this setup is just what I have planned as of right now...

    Block:
    Wiseco 1400 HD .20 Over Pistons
    Manley “I” Beam Rods
    L19 ARP Headstuds
    ARP Main Studs
    Felpro MLS Headgasket
    ACL Race Bearings
    Kiggly Girdle

    (Entire bottom end will be balanced and cryotreated)

    Head:
    JMS Port/Polished
    FP3 Cams
    Kiggly Beehive Springs & Retainers
    Kiggly HLA Pressure Regulator
    SS 1mm Over Valves
    (Ceramic Coated/Cryotreated)
    Turbo:
    Forced Performance HTA T4Z .82 Hotside
    Punishment Racing T3 Manifold
    JM Fab Drag SMIM
    Boomba Racing 75mm TB
    Zex Turbo Application Wet Shot 35-75hp (for spool up/dyno)

    Drivetrain
    Shep Stage 4 (will run stock tranny during break in so i can save some money for the rebuild)
    QuarterMaster Twin Disc 7.25" V-Drive Clutch w/Flywheel

    Suspension
    D2 Racing Full Coilovers
    Prothane Total Suspension Kit
    CNC Aluminum Rear Differential Bushings
    CNC Aluminum Driveshaft Bushings
    15’ Volk TE37
    M/T Drag Radials

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Austin
    Posts
    48

    Default

    This is what my car looked like from the last build thread i did..





    12/01/2008
    I managed to snatch up the rear end w/driveshaft for $400
    Just need the tranny/Transfercase/axles




    My New Turbo
    Forced Performance T4Z .82 Hotside


    Hotside was ceramic coated by Tirado Custom Coatings


    1/07/2009
    So last night I picked up the pistons from Carlos at Tirado Custom Coatings who's now offering Piston Top Coatings! You guys def gotta hit him up because they came out great!
    Wiseco 1400HD .20 Pistons (Sending to get ceramic coated)



    Also got some CNC Machined Rear Differential and Driveshaft Bushings from an ebay member who makes these… I def recommend him because not only is his price unbeatable! But they came out perfect and with quick shipping..

    Heres a link to one of his ads..
    eBay Motors: 95-99 DSM REAR DIFFERENTIAL BUSHINGS Eclipse Talon Diff (item 260336884223 end time Jan-22-09 11:49:21 PST)

    His ebay name is hx2600

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Austin
    Posts
    48

    Default

    1/10/09
    Some goodies that came in

    ARP L19 Head Studs


    Kiggly 6 Bolt Main Girdle


    ARP Main Studs


    Satin Black Chassis Paint for the Front/Rear Subframe/Control Arms


    1/20/09
    Haven’t had too much going on right now, took a few side jobs on some local DSMs that have been taking up my weekends but i did manage to get some goodies

    My FP3 Cams


    Few things i got back from the chrome shop




    I got almost every bolt/nut in the engine bay chromed

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Austin
    Posts
    48

    Default

    1/21/09
    TCC Started on the welding:



    Grinding down the welds to make everything nice and smooth:


    Used paint on the areas I grinded down to prevent corrosion until we decide on paint color:






    2/13/09
    Haven’t had any real good updates lately
    Currently waiting on the block to be finished by the machine shop...
    Just bought the paint for the engine bay to be sprayed...

    A local upcoming shop/team here named JMS Racing did a port/polish on my head and i think they did a real good job. They have some pretty sick Evos including (1) that i hope to see into the "9s on pump" with the Buschur Setup...
    (Dont mind the Valve Guides, those arent the ones im going with)




    Cleaned up my 3g Lifters by soaking them in Brake Cleaner for (2) days and bleeding them


    I went to a local exhaust shop and got all the stock rubber bushings torched out so that i can press in the new Prothane Full Suspension kit


    I also got a chance to press in the New Aluminum CNC Bushings from Orlando @ HX2600 Performance..
    Fit great!!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Austin
    Posts
    48

    Default

    Also got in the DVD/T Fab FMIC This thing is SICK!!



    Picked up some of the :Bling: from the chrome shop..




    5/04/09
    Its been a long time since the last update and finally got some stuff going

    New 1g Timing Tensioner, STD Clevite Main Bearings/ACL Rod Bearings


    Manley "I" Beams.. Decided to go with them after seeing so much success out of them with most of Buschur's builds not to mention iv'e seen some DD EVO's making some pretty sick power out of these...


    QuarterMaster 7.25'' Twin Disk


    Also, my block finally got finished!!
    For some reason my 1st machine shop had my Block/Crank/Parts/Deposit Money for 5 Months and didn’t even touch it… so I finally had enough and got my stuff and went to a new machine shop which did a great job and took 2 weeks tops!



    Once everything comes back from being Cryotreated, Ceramic Coated and Fully Balanced... we'll get to bulding the block...

    Next I decided to run the infamous “Saturn Alternator” to solve the DSM Alternator woes under high boost/RPM pressures. I used a lot of info of the DSMLink forums with this thread:
    ECMTuning User Support Forums

    I went to a local junk yard to pull the Alternator plug off 1.9L 94 Saturn (ill show hot to hardwire it later into the thread)



    1st thing I had to do was grind down the alternator case inorder for it to bolt up to the 4g63 Block, I used a Mini Dremel and Grinder to shave it down



  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Austin
    Posts
    48

    Default

    Next I had to grind down the block along with it… The frontcase cover has to be done as well but im going to wait until its bolted on


    I also got the final parts for the AWD Swap...
    Going to give the Tranny and Transfercase a good cleaning/new seals before i thow everything in...




    Also Carlos @ TCC got the subframe finished up with the Suspension Paint… looks sick!


    And now.. The Beginning of the “AWD Swap”


    What the undercarrage looks like now…




  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Austin
    Posts
    48

    Default

    Until next time… she’s tucked away for Part II





    7/13/09
    I was hoping to get further into this build by now but… I gotta admit ive been slacking…

    I recently turned 21 a couple of months ago and have been focusing more time Downtown than anything!

    Although I’m really hoping to really get things moving soon…

    I finished the rear end of the AWD Swap a while back but never got around to posting it so here it goes…

    1st started off by finding the rear bolt that needs to be moved to the front


    I cut around this square that was hiding the bolt



    I bought some replacement bolts/washers that I had welded together and then to the frame..



    Here’s an under shot of what needs to be cut/moved


    Next was to find the front hole and throw/weld the bolt in there


    Now that was left is to remove the FWD Gas tank hangers that are in the way for the AWD Rear end
    A regular drill will be able to drill through the spot welds and just hammer it off..


    Done! AWD Rear Subframe bolted and mocked up!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Austin
    Posts
    48

    Default



    As far as the longblock goes…

    The head is currently at the Machine shop getting the 1mm Over valves seated then going to head to TCC to get ceramic coated…




    Big Thanks! To Bill & Patrick over at Mountain High Performance
    Home Page
    I sent Bill my Crank/Rods/Bearings/Valves to get Cryotreated and he was able to send me some pics to show just how cold these parts get
    I highly recommend them, they’re no stranger to DSMs, Patrick is a fellow DSMer and even on the DSMLink forums
    Not only are they EXCELLENT in turnaround time but great in customer service!





    After that,
    Parts were sent directly over to TCC for his Dry Film Lubricating coating...
    TCC Powder and Ceramic Coating
    Definitely did an excellent job in the coating and masking off the journals!



    I’m dropping the bottom end parts to get fully balanced and hoping to start putting together the bottom end this week!

    I prepped the block a while back by painting and installing oil Squirters/BSEK bearings


  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Austin
    Posts
    48

    Default





    8/23/09
    TCC continues on the engine bay, about 20% completed.
    There is still alot of work left to make this bay showcar quality :thumb:

    BEFORE


    AFTER


    JMS Racing Port/Poished
    Kiggly Beehive Springs/Retainers
    English Racing 1mm over SS Valves (Cryotreated)
    FP3 Cams
    3g Lifters

    And TCC Ceramic Coating on the Valves, Combustion Chambers, Exhaust Ports






  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Austin
    Posts
    48

    Default

    9/03/2009

    Building the Bottom End

    I had the block

    *Bored .020 w/torque plate
    *Decked
    *Line Honed
    *Hot Tanked
    *Bottom End Fully Balanced
    *Cryotreated - Crank/Rods/Bearings
    *Ceramic Coated - Pistons/Rods/Crank




    Parts
    *OEM Crank (Cryotreated/Ceramic Coated Counterweights)
    *Wiseco 1400 HD .020 Pistons (Ceramic Coated Tops)
    *Manley “I” Beam Rods (Cryotreated/Ceramic Coated)
    *Clevite Main Bearings STD (Cryotreated)
    *ACL Rod Bearings STD (Cryotreated)
    *Kiggly Main Girdle

    Piston Ring Filing
    1st thing I like to do is file the rings. Wiseco calls for .018 TOP and .020 Second but since I’m planning on running around 40-45psi with a shot on top of that I decided to go with a .020 TOP .023 Bottom.

    Tools I used

    Piston Ring Filer, Ring Compressor, Feeler Gauge

    Magnet, Dial Indicator

    Lubriplate Assembly Lube, ARP Moly Lube

    Plastigage


    Here's what comes ina set, Top, 2nd and Oil Rings


    I like to fill up a cup with oil to make sure the walls are always lubed up and ill re-lube everytime I take out the ring…



    The best way to set the ring in the center of the bore is by using a piston w/ring. This will insure that you get the most accurate reading with the feeler gauge…



    Check the starting end gap with a feeler gauge…

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Austin
    Posts
    48

    Default

    When using the Piston Ring Filer, I always file down (1) side only and use the other as a reference..


    Next is the Bottom Ring, same method applies except when filing this ring, be careful as it will be a lot easier to file than the TOP ring…


    Piston / Connecting Rod

    Once I’ve filed all my rings ill start installing the Pistons into the Connecting Rods…




    To make things easy when inserting the C-Clips, i use the grove in the piston to press in the clip.



    Use plenty of assembly lube on the wrist pin and slide it through the Piston-Connecting Rod




  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Austin
    Posts
    48

    Default

    2nd C-Clip to lock the wrist pin into place



    Done




    The Piston Rings

    I start with the Oil rings, I sandwich all (3) together and Install as a single ring





    The Rings endgaps will go accordingly

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Austin
    Posts
    48

    Default

    Crank Install
    Starting with the Main Bearings to the block, with plenty of assembly lube





    Carefully set the crank onto the bearings and give it a few spins around just to make sure it spins freely..


    At this point I like to check the clearances using Plastigage's



    Rest of the Main Bearings on to the Main Caps and lube up the top…

    Installed along with the Kiggly Girdle




    I also like checking the Crank Endplay by using a Magnet and Dial Indicator.
    Using a lever to push the Crank, The endplay was right at .0025 (Perfect)



    Finally I removed the Main caps and checked the plastigage's, right at .003 (Perfect)

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Austin
    Posts
    48

    Default

    Piston/Rods Install

    Using the Piston Ring Compressor, I wrapped it around the piston and tightened it down.


    Used a towel and Hammer to press down the Piston into the bore


    Lined up the Rod to the crank journal and torqued down the ARP bolts to 40ft lbs w/Moly Lube


    Finished Product, giving it a few spins to make sure nothing hits and spins freely





  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Austin
    Posts
    48

    Default

    11/18/2009

    Teaser






    800awhp coming to a dyno near you...

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    3,812

    Default

    Nice looking build. Do you plan on bringing the car to the shootout? It would be fun to run our cars against each other.
    My car is built with Ebay parts.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Vermilion
    Posts
    427

    Default

    Maybe you could run some buschur parts in there too...Just a thought...
    BR Stages 1-4
    FP Red Forcing the air
    Exedy Twin putting it to the ground

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    15857, PA
    Posts
    151

    Default

    I've been following this build for a long time and can't wait to see some more updates!

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Austin
    Posts
    48

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dd_man View Post
    Nice looking build. Do you plan on bringing the car to the shootout? It would be fun to run our cars against each other.
    Id like to, its a 24hour drive and im hoping i can find someone with a truck to trailer it

    Quote Originally Posted by stevolution View Post
    Maybe you could run some buschur parts in there too...Just a thought...
    Might run a bushcur COP after break in

    Quote Originally Posted by 95TSIAWD$ View Post
    I've been following this build for a long time and can't wait to see some more updates!
    Quote Originally Posted by HackerCy View Post
    wow, very nice job done there. Congratulations on your built!
    Thnx!

    98 AWD Mitsu Eclipse
    2.3 Stroker w/HTA 67mm
    *2600 lbs Street Car*
    235/60/15 MT w/Volk TE37


  20. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Seguin, Tx.
    Posts
    98

    Default

    Once this build is completed, it's going to be one of the craziest and nicest 2g's around for sure.
    The attention to detail Richard is taking is amazing, I just wish he would post more pics already! lol.
    Carlos Tirado
    www.tiradocustomcoatings.com
    Email: carlos@tiradocustomcoatings.com
    Phone: (830) 542-9476
    AIM: tiradocc

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 4 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts