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Thread: Another cam test and some adjustable gears

  1. #1
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    Default Another cam test and some adjustable gears

    Two weeks ago I tested a new custom ground cam we had done. The results are not what I expected. Over that weekend I got to thinking about how the car was running and determined something was wrong with the car. The following Monday I came in and found that something was wrong with the COP. I fixed it by replacing everything and then took the car off the dyno.

    I wanted to go back and test the cams again so today was the day. First thing was to determine what the original problem was and I found it. NOTE TO SELF: "Do NOT do your own wiring on a COP." I screwed up the harness on the COP and that's what was wrong. Fixed, put our production wiring kit on the car

    Next up was to run our 272 cams in the car. I made a few pulls and then started moving the sprocket around. The first test was to advance the intake cam. I advance the cam by 4 degrees. The car's idle was noticably worse. The power did increase in the low/mid range by a nice portion.

    Down low the gains in torque started at 3400 rpm and were up 2 ft lbs, at 3700 it was up to 27 ft lbs by 4800 rpm they peaked at 34 ft lbs and then slowly fell off until at 6000 rpm the torque was equal again. This slowly turned into a max loss of 7 ft lbs at 7200.

    Down low the gains in whp started at 3100 rpm up 1 ft lbs, at 3700 it was up to 19 whp and by 4800 they gains peaked at 32 whp and then slowly fell off until they were even at about 6100 rpm and then slowly became losses with a peak loss at 7200 of 7 whp.

    The next test was to put the intake cam back to 0 and then advance the exhaust cam 4 degrees. This resulted in nothing but losses.

    Next up I retarded the exhaust cam 4 degrees, there were no gains/losses over running the exhaust cam at 0.

    Here is the dyno sheet showing the cams run at 0, intake advance 4 degrees/exhaust 0 and intake 0/exhaust retarded 4 degrees.



    This tell me that installing our cams advanced slightly on the intake side, if you can stand the idle being worse, is a good trade off for some additional low end/mid range with slight losses up top. This can be done by installing the cam a 1/2 tooth advanced on the intake cam if you don't want to buy sprockets.

    Next I swapped the new custom grinds in the car.

    The idle is very good on the custom cam. The power was also very good, compared to our cams the peak whp/torque were basically identical. There were some losses in the low/mid range.

    Next was to try to advance the intake cam by 4 degrees, this brought the low/mid range up to match our BF272's, the charts like this are identical. I did a few more tests but the next one on this sheet is the intake cam advanced 4 degrees and the exhaust cam retarded 4 degrees. Retarding the exhaust cam made the car so it would barely run at idle. The power was identical with the exhaust cam retarded, just as I found it to be on the BF272's.

    Here is the dyno graph comparing the large came set at 0, then set at 4 degrees advance on the intake, then 4 adv int/4 retard on the exhaust:



    What did I gain from all this? Not much, just as I've found in the past. I spent 6 hours on the dyno today, put I-don't-know-how-many more runs on my car and beat the shit out of it for basically nothing.

    Yes, the 30+whp/ft lbs on both cams in the low/mid range is a nice gain, I can't deny that. Simple enough to do, move the intake cam gear half a tooth.

    The bottom line is for power over about 5800 rpm both our cams and these custom ground cams performed best set straight up on the stock cam gears...........intersting isn't it.

    Enjoy the test.

  2. #2
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    Thanks for the info. I may head out there next week and hang out for the day. Once I get back with some fuel I will test the intake at 0 and at +2 degrees to see what the difference is if any.

    Have a good weekend!

    -Em
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  3. #3
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    Looking forward to you coming out again. The intake is +4, not +2. If you just move the sprocket a 1/2 tooth is about 3 which is close.

  4. #4
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    Thanks for doing the test David!
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  5. #5
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    Another round of awesome testing Dave. Can the idle be improved with some ecu tweaks when you advance the intake cam?
    To me it seems worth the small losses up top to buy a cam gear if the idle can be worked out... Im assuming the evo 8 guys can buy just the intake side gear and leave the other stock?
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  6. #6
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    Well this would match up with what Rob at FP was saying in the other thread.
    Last edited by Monochrome; 03-05-2010 at 10:14 PM.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by warp9 View Post
    Another round of awesome testing Dave. Can the idle be improved with some ecu tweaks when you advance the intake cam?
    To me it seems worth the small losses up top to buy a cam gear if the idle can be worked out... Im assuming the evo 8 guys buy just the intake side gear and leave the other stock?
    Well, a simple fix would be to make the car idle at a higher RPM.
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Buschur View Post
    Next up was to run our 272 cams in the car. I made a few pulls and then started moving the sprocket around. The first test was to advance the intake cam. I advance the cam by 4 degrees. The car's idle was noticably worse. The power did increase in the low/mid range by a nice portion.


    The next test was to put the intake cam back to 0 and then advance the exhaust cam 4 degrees. This resulted in nothing but losses.

    Next up I retarded the exhaust cam 4 degrees, there were no gains/losses over running the exhaust cam at 0.


    This tell me that installing our cams advanced slightly on the intake side, if you can stand the idle being worse, is a good trade off for some additional low end/mid range with slight losses up top.


    Next was to try to advance the intake cam by 4 degrees, this brought the low/mid range up to match our BF272's, the charts like this are identical. I did a few more tests but the next one on this sheet is the intake cam advanced 4 degrees and the exhaust cam retarded 4 degrees. Retarding the exhaust cam made the car so it would barely run at idle. The power was identical with the exhaust cam retarded, just as I found it to be on the BF272's.

    What did I gain from all this? Not much, just as I've found in the past. I spent 6 hours on the dyno today, put I-don't-know-how-many more runs on my car and beat the shit out of it for basically nothing.

    Yes, the 30+whp/ft lbs on both cams in the low/mid range is a nice gain, I can't deny that. Simple enough to do, move the intake cam gear half a tooth.


    i bolded the same thing that i've noticed.

    i havent seen much, if any gains in retarding the intake, and the gains that are had, arent worth the losses in the midrange since they are minimal gains.
    ive never seen ANY gains advancing the exhaust gear.

    different grind/model cams....but ive tested +2, -3 and -2,+2 on a particular cam...and the gains were about 60hp/60tq and 2-300rpm spool increase w/ +2, -3.

    ive continuously seen gains w/ advancing the intake and retarding the exh, but as dave noted...the idle is HORRIBLE. especially w/ larger cams...its almost unbearable. that's where mivec comes in handy for adjusting it for idle quality.
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  9. #9
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    The idle can probably be worked out, well maybe, it's pretty rough. Yes, MIVEC in that case would be nice........maybe I am slowly becoming more of a fan of MIVEC.

    Right now the car is sitting, Monday I am calling to have another cam ground. I'll swap them in for one more shot at this. That will be the end of it then.

    The car is so optimal it's very difficult to improve on it.

    As for the cam gears, easiest thing to do is simple take the stock intake cam gear and advance is a 1/2 tooth. Very simple. Remember, idle is ROUGH.

    My results showed NO improvements on these two sets of cams retarding the cam gear and losses advancing it.

  10. #10
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    do you think there would be any issues of daily driveability on the advancement? i mean as in stalling
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  11. #11
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    Yes mullen the idle is pretty bad.

  12. #12
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    i stall my car on stock idle rpm.

    282/280 cams. 15lb twin disc. the light inertia of the clutch makes it hard to keep the car on when pulling out of gear to idle.

    the bigger the cam profile the rougher idle will be advancing the intake, and/or retarding the exh.

    i actually retarded my intake, and advanced my exh cam for daily driving purposes...gave me a lil better driveability and mpg, and not as prone to shut off pulling the car out of gear.
    i need to raise the idle 150rpm or so and itll be good.
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  13. #13
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    I don't know what it is about the mustang dyno, but 7ft-lbs @ 7200 RPM is not 7 WHP. It's either 9.6 HP and 7 ft-lbs or 7HP and 5 ft-lbs. Can't be 7 HP and 7 ft-lbs.

    I think Robert said it best though. Cam timing changes will show VERY LITTLE power change once the turbo is maxed out because the turbo is the dominate parameter.

    I've carefully tested and verified 5% gains/loses by changing cam timing on my Comp 280s. But it was at low boost where the turbo was not the limiting factor. You could CLEARLY see the torque peak moving with the change in cam timing.

    Also, 4 degree adjustments are actually pretty large. I was finding gains with just 1 degree increments. Immediately going to 4 degrees may put you past optimal timing.

    In the end though, I decided 0,0 was the best setup for the street. I'll probably change it a little for the track as I was able to gain a decent amount of top end.
    Last edited by 03whitegsr; 03-06-2010 at 11:33 PM.

  14. #14
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    Depending on how the cam was ground I can see why some people gain huge numbers from moving the cam gears around. Take the 5r test in Jeff's car, HUGE gains in the low/mid range on that car by advancing the intake cam with the MIVEC, with very small losses up top. There is no way I could even test m car with that extreme advance on the intake cam, it wouldn't even run. I had less advance also 03white, this is a brief run down of what I did, like I said I was on the dyno just over 6 hours on Friday. Part of that was swapping parts, trouble shooting and such too.

    I think, excluding MIVEC, every cam we use/recommend and sell has been best installed at 0-0.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Buschur View Post
    Depending on how the cam was ground I can see why some people gain huge numbers from moving the cam gears around. Take the 5r test in Jeff's car, HUGE gains in the low/mid range on that car by advancing the intake cam with the MIVEC, with very small losses up top. There is no way I could even test m car with that extreme advance on the intake cam, it wouldn't even run. I had less advance also 03white, this is a brief run down of what I did, like I said I was on the dyno just over 6 hours on Friday. Part of that was swapping parts, trouble shooting and such too.

    I think, excluding MIVEC, every cam we use/recommend and sell has been best installed at 0-0.
    Here, the part I made bold is why MIVEC is an advantage. You could have the cams running at 0-0 for idle and low RPM conditions and advance the intake cam at mid range RPM's, and then have it back to 0-0 in the upper RPM's to prevent the high RPM power drop you saw with the manually adjustable cam gears.

    Keith

  16. #16
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    Yes, agreed Keith. A few weeks ago I wouldn't have agreed with the statement simply because my base MIVEC maps idle good and take advantage of the low/mid range already. After this test on my car it would be interesting to see what this cam would do with 0 at idle and a lot more advance in the low/mid range.

    Before this is over we will be grinding an EVO9 cam and I think it's coming sooner than later at this point.

  17. #17
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    Maybe too much a newb like question for this discussion, but how the hell would you be able to offset the stock cam gears 1/2 tooth to get the advance you were talking about?

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Buschur View Post
    Yes, agreed Keith. A few weeks ago I wouldn't have agreed with the statement simply because my base MIVEC maps idle good and take advantage of the low/mid range already. After this test on my car it would be interesting to see what this cam would do with 0 at idle and a lot more advance in the low/mid range.

    Before this is over we will be grinding an EVO9 cam and I think it's coming sooner than later at this point.
    If you want to do some testing on my car when you do the tune, I am all for it... anything that works and makes good power is great in my book

    Keith

  19. #19
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    You have to take the belt off and move the cam rotation, it's not easy but would save buying the gear. The idle is going to SUCK though. Actually..........now that I am thinking about your question more, it's not possible. In order to move one gear a half tooth the other has to be moved the same 1/2 tooth, which would not help power.......

    Adjustable cam gear is needed.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Buschur View Post
    Before this is over we will be grinding an EVO9 cam and I think it's coming sooner than later at this point.
    If you can show me a cam that beats the FP cams in midrange power, I'm all for it.
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