How to build removeable parachute mount on a 1G

[antilag_200]

Just figured that I would share some of my recent work on my fwd
the pics are pretty self explanatory

Well folks, here are some snap shots of the parachute mount.... just a couple more tabs for the wheelie bars and the support bars for triangulation and she should be done.

Thinking we are going to powdercoat it pink... because parachutes are for sissies

enjoy

just the bar attached to 1/4 inch steel plate and the frame rail of the car






the main point where the chord for the parachute will be tied to


and with the parachute assembly mount , final height adjustment will take place once I have the chute




side view

with the bumper on


and the almost finished product


more to come as always

[antilag_200]

Next up was to add some triangulation

mounted on the vehicle with upper chute holder

another view

next some tabs were cut so that I could mount my upper struts for the wheelie bars

welding up that junk

a little shot of me working ( lack of safety equipment because only good welders deserve safety equipment)

and some shots with the wheelie bars on




The parachute mount is completely removeable if required, it is now powdercoated aluminum silver and I shall post pictures of that soon.

I hope you enjoyed the little show and tell
later folks

[PATRICK B.]

Thanks for posting up your fab work with us! Looks good however i have a couple ?'s as i don't have much experience w/ fab work for a chute mount but........

Over here in CA our NHRA cage cert guy is requiring all points that will be welded to the frame be on 6x6" steel plate like the points for the cage itself.

Also i know it may not be easy to do on the 1G but does it matter how low the location of the mount is in regards to the cage and/or frame?

I'm used to seeing the main chute bar coming off a cross-bar in between the rear down bars that connect to the frame. (hope that makes sense lol)

More pics of the rest of the cage please

[antilag_200]

The cage in my car is nothing impressive but I will post pictures of that soon.
Basically how I understand the rules is that the horizontal bar , must be tied to the frame rails ( in a una body) or attached to the main struts of the roll cage. In my case, I used the existing bumper support locations, because that would be the strongest part on the car. Also with my car, there is a beefy lower bar that holds the lower struts of my wheelie bars, so there is enough strength there for the inital hit of the chute. The plates that I used were 1/4 inch steel ( way over kill) I think the 6 by 6 pad rule is for plates that are less than 3/16 inch ( but I could be wrong) I don't think it matters much with the location of the mount, I however think it is more important to determine the physical centerline and CG of the vehicle, so that under deployment it opens straight and true in relation to the vehicle, instead of upwards/downwards.

I take it you are doing something for your evo right ? I hope that helps a little.

[PATRICK B.]

The cage in my car is nothing impressive but I will post pictures of that soon.
Basically how I understand the rules is that the horizontal bar , must be tied to the frame rails ( in a una body) or attached to the main struts of the roll cage. In my case, I used the existing bumper support locations, because that would be the strongest part on the car. Also with my car, there is a beefy lower bar that holds the lower struts of my wheelie bars, so there is enough strength there for the inital hit of the chute. The plates that I used were 1/4 inch steel ( way over kill) I think the 6 by 6 pad rule is for plates that are less than 3/16 inch ( but I could be wrong) I don't think it matters much with the location of the mount, I however think it is more important to determine the physical centerline and CG of the vehicle, so that under deployment it opens straight and true in relation to the vehicle, instead of upwards/downwards.

I take it you are doing something for your evo right ? I hope that helps a little.

Thanks for the info i posted so quickly i didn't even get to see the rest of the pics you posted in the 2nd post LOL!

Looks cool w/ the wheelie bars on it!

Your explanation makes complete sense

My car has only gone 9.90 and 146mph so not an immediate need for the chute unless i make a bit more power but all the track in CA are vert strict and so i'm trying to gather any and all info in regards to cages and everything else needed to ge the car cert'd to 8.50 and i've had quams about it with the car having only 4k miles on it but it's my toy and it's what i love to do so i think it will happen sooner than later.

I've read the NHRA handbook probably 50 times already and still get overloaded w/ how many minute details there are to follow!

I think our NHRA guy is sick of my phone calls LOL.

[antilag_200]

I understand. In my case the car has gone over 135 mph, which requires me to comply to 9.99 spec, Basically I see the parachute as more of a safety device, vs something that is required to stop my car. Basically my car weighs around 2400 pounds with me in it and has oversized brakes, so I have no issue whatsoever stopping with the regular brakes. However in the event that I have some failure, it would be nice to have the chute , just in case

146 is cooking, congratulations on that... I have only gone as fast as 140 mph at 30 psi of boost in my pile , hopefully I can do a little better than that in the next few months.

If you have any questions at all , feel free to ask and I will do my best to help /explain.

[antilag_200]

I finally received my Stroud safety competition eliminator chute. It is quite an interesting design compared to the simpson cross form chute. The only thing left now is to order the "remove before flight" safety pin and the actual release cable mechanism for chute deployment.

also in the picture below you can see the powdercoated silver chute mount. I think it turned out great.
enjoy

[project_skyline]

Very nice indeed. Great fabrication work!

[antilag_200]

thank you for your kind words I appreciate it .

[missouri_dsm]

Looks good but why do you have the chute facing almost straight up? It should be facing more at a 45 degree angle. Not sure how much it can affect a fwd but on a rwd car, if it is angled too high, the chute will catch the air too high up and jerk the rear of the car up. Im also not sure how much this will affect you since you dont have a launcher either. Just giving you some things to think about. I also understand it needs to clear the wheelie bars but thats what nets are for. Other than that, it looks like some good work as well as a good write up.

[antilag_200]

Thank you for your input.

The plate that holds the chute is at a 45 degree angle, the picture does not depict that though. Also the stroud system has a launcher built into the pilot chute, I basically followed the directions that were given to me by stroud. To be honest, most of the chutes that are available are for rear drive cars. Since fwd cars are light in the rear, its really a crap shoot as to what will happen under deployment. Once I receive the release cable , I will do some tests, at lower speeds to see its behaviour

[missouri_dsm]

Thank you for your input.

The plate that holds the chute is at a 45 degree angle, the picture does not depict that though. Also the stroud system has a launcher built into the pilot chute, I basically followed the directions that were given to me by stroud. To be honest, most of the chutes that are available are for rear drive cars. Since fwd cars are light in the rear, its really a crap shoot as to what will happen under deployment. Once I receive the release cable , I will do some tests, at lower speeds to see its behaviour

Keep us updated on how well it works. Judging by the pics, you look like you know what you are doing. By launcher, I am referring to this(the aluminum tube): http://www.1320video.com/gallery/SMFriday/IMG_5313
I know the stroud has the spring on the pilot but that tube that the spring is pulled back into is whats typically refered to as a launcher. I think I will be going to the track in Milan soon, that would be cool to see your car there.

[antilag_200]

Ahh now I understand what you mean by the launcher. No I do not have that piece, to be quite frank with you, I did not think that I would require it at the time, because my car is not that fast at this point in its life. I am just a little concerned about how it will react under deployment.

Thank you for your thoughts though, I appreciate what you have to say.

I have not run at milan for many years now. I mostly go to stanton or us131 strips here. Hopefully we can catch up at the shootout this year, because I will be attending. The last time I went to the shootout was back in 2004

[Jrod@Buschur]

Nice work man.

[shearer]

Looks good dude. The triangulation is a nice touch with the round tube you used. When we built our chute mount I went back and forth on using round tube with triangulation like yours or just a heavy duty square tube. I decided to go with the square tube to keeps costs down.

Here's the one we offer...
http://shearerfab.com/products.php?itemid=180

[antilag_200]

Thanks jarrod, I will be giving you a call soon for some dyno time with the old timer.

Wow Ron... I have not talked to you agess... how are you ? ( I think the last time we spoke, was when you were on 4g61t.org) God I feel old.

wow yours look beefy.. definitely better welds than my junk. My only concern ron and let me get your thoughts on this. The entire bar is being held together by 4 stock studs that are on either side of the frame rail. I was considering maybe punching those out and putting a better quality nut and bolt in there place ?. maybe with backing plates on the rear ?

[PATRICK B.]

Looks good dude. The triangulation is a nice touch with the round tube you used. When we built our chute mount I went back and forth on using round tube with triangulation like yours or just a heavy duty square tube. I decided to go with the square tube to keeps costs down.

Here's the one we offer...
http://shearerfab.com/products.php?itemid=180

Thanks jarrod, I will be giving you a call soon for some dyno time with the old timer.

Wow Ron... I have not talked to you agess... how are you ? ( I think the last time we spoke, was when you were on 4g61t.org) God I feel old.

wow yours look beefy.. definitely better welds than my junk. My only concern ron and let me get your thoughts on this. The entire bar is being held together by 4 stock studs that are on either side of the frame rail. I was considering maybe punching those out and putting a better quality nut and bolt in there place ?. maybe with backing plates on the rear ?

Can either of you please confirm whether or not it is legal to run the chute mount removable as is shown on your site Ron?

I spoke with a reputable chassis place http://www.cachassisworks.com/c-93-p...nt-system.aspx and they told me that it was not legal to have the portion that directly attaches to the parachute strap removable but rather the portion that actually holds the chute bag itself as seen in the link.

Also i spoke to our local NHRA official that will cert our cages and since the rules are a bit vague in regards to location and fastening of the main bar(square tube) he said that it would be ok to use the oem location/studs but reminded us that it should have a decent size plate but not necessarily 6x6"..........but i too would think it would be a good idea to use beefier stuff to fasten it.

Thanks

[antilag_200]

I did mine the way it is in the link that you provided patrick. I am sure what RON did as well is legal.

The plate is only there for additional surface area, on a load spreading case for welding the bars to. the actual shear force will be at the horizontal bar, not the plate.

I hope that helps, I am sure Ron will chime in.

[PATRICK B.]

Thanks and i def am not trying to say that Ron's version is not legal it's just that i'm getting a bit confused since Chris Alston is a local company to us here in CA and to our most local track Sacramento Raceway so i would imagin that they would have a very good idea of what is allowed.

Sure hope Ron does get a free sec to chime in as we are right about to the point where we are going to fab up the chute mount etc. and i would really love to make it removable w/o having to actually remove the entire bumper and horizontal mounting bar

I think i'll shoot Emery@STM a quick pm as i know he recently went through this process.

Also on that note i did some searching and found a kit from SkinnyKid racing that shows a removable mount similar to what Ron posted:
http://www.skinnykidracecars.com/pro...ssis-mount-kit

[antilag_200]

check out chasis engineering and jerry bickel race cars

also competition engineering makes "kits" but it is so simple to make these things, that you could even go to your local metal yard and pick up scrap pieces, for under 20 bucks.